Tips & Tricks...
home Exterior
  • Car and hood care
    • Paul Lathwell at DotComoff shares his views on car care here.
    • he also explains the general problems with the hood here.
    • Paul discusses the pro's and con's of hard top ownership here, including how to fitment.
    • Dieter has this page on hood reproofing.
  • Wipers
    • Mike Satur's windscreen wiper linkage
      • Broon shows how to install it here.
      • Dieter has some pictures here.
    • Wiper ball joint.
      • Dieter shows how to repair the ball joint here.
      • There is an improved wiper mechanism repair kit available, the part number is DKT000010, and consists of the link bars ball joints, some rubber shims and instructions. These kits are selling for around £16 from Xpart or Rimmers. The kit is mentioned in the above link.
      • Hepburn on the forum has this excellent tip for a repair to the driver side wiper linkage -
    • Park the wipers at the 1 o'clock position to ensure best access to wiper mechanism under bonnet. Pull apart the ball joint (if not already apart). Tip: set wipers going and turn off ignition to obtain correct parking position.
    • Grind off the "rivet like" lip securing the top half of the ball joint to the mechanism plate and remove it. A small Dremmel type tool works well for this, albeit slowly.
    • Drill a 5mm hole through the top half of the ball joint, in such a way you can put an M4 bolt through it and the mechanism plate for re-attachment.
    • Do as above to the bottom half of the ball joint, being careful to maintain the same or similar angle. This part will have to be done in situ.
    • Take a 40 or 50mm M4 bolt, place a large (20mm) M4 washer on it and feed the bolt upwards through the bottom half of the ball joint.
    • Place the upper half of the ball joint back into place and push the above bolt through it and the wiper mechanism plate. Tip: Locate the upper half of the ball joint back into the wiper mechanism plate before inserting the bolt through it.
    • Place another 20mm M4 washer on the bolt, followed by an M4 nut. Tighten quite firmly. This should result in the ball joint and wiper mechanism plate being "sandwiched" by the washers.
    • Test wipers (with water on screen) and ensure there is no "judder" on the driver side wiper. If there is then tighten the "sandwich" further and test again. Repeat until any "judder" is gone.
    • Once satisfied with your repair apply a "nylon" locking nut on top of the 1st nut and tighten securely. Tip: M4 nylon nuts can be obtained from model shops.
    • Finally, vacuum away the grinding dust from the area below the wiper mechanism to ensure it does not leave "rust" stains after a few days.
    • A final tip - keep a spare nut & bolt "sandwich" in the car together with the tools to fit it, just in case the fitted one breaks. That way you can always fit it in situ in the event of it breaking again. I've not needed to yet, but best be prepared eh?
    • Another tip from Hepburn obtained from a nice AA man. That is to trap a layer of rubber glove (the type used by mechanics) between the ball joint halves. It won't last long but may be enough to get you home...
    • one more solution from Dr Dave/Disco Dave over on the MG-Rover forum.
    • Single wiper arm
      • fancy a single wiper arm?, Rob Bell has had a conversion done, read all about it on the F Register forum.
  • Wind stops
    • Dieter has this page on wind stops, including dimensions for the OE MGR wind stop posts.
    • Rob Bell did the infamous 'blue wig' test for wind stops on his web site here.
    • Adrianvvc from the MGF Register forums gives this tip for fitting the MGR windstop without using a template to an MG F -
      • Remove the plastic rear finishing bulkhead only 3 screws and release from clips.
      • Then remove metal strip 4 screws, keep rear 2 only.
      • Refit metal strip with 3 screws temporary under bulkhead to locate position of front 2 holes, drill a pilot hole through these and bulkhead.
      • Replace metal strip and bulkhead holes will line up for the 2 windstop brackets !
      • The replace and two holes will line
    • Hainsie from SWMGF has put together this great MS Word document (880kb) showing how to replace the mesh in the MG OE wind stop. The thread covering this on SWMGF's forum is here (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the thread)
  • Window regulator
    • Dieter has a page on a broken door window bracket here.
    • the parts for the door window regulator are shown on Dieters EPC page.
  • Glass
    • Tony Thompson explains how to adjust the door glass in his web site here.
    • Dieter shows how to adjust the door glass and cheater here.
    • Steve gives this tip for scratches on the windscreen -
      "To remove the usual arc caused by a defective wiper blade, use jewellers rouge. This is a very fine powder that should be mixed with a liquid glass polish to make a paste, apply using plenty of elbow grease !. You should finish up with little or no sign of the scratch (depending on how deep it was) and without any windscreen distortion."
  • Cheater
    • Here's a great tip from Jerry 'MGtfnut' Herbert on how to make the cheater fit......
      "The cheater is held on by 2 screws at the top against the door frame, and an adjustment at the bottom of the window runner "A". I took the whole lot out because there was 2/3 mm of movement of the cheater, when the window runner was fixed. I found that the cheater bit is held onto the runner "U" shaped channel with 2 small machine screws. These had come loose, and the detents locating it had become distorted. With a bit of careful squeezing in a vice, I managed to close up the slack in the metal runner making the detent positive, and replaced the machine screws using Loctite.
      I then carefully bent the top edge of the door frame, with protective strips of metal and "Mole" grips, inwards slightly.
      When it was all replaced the cheater fitted perfectly, so much so that I can take the plastic tube dodge out!!
    • Garvin made these covers to fit over the slot left in the cheater after he'd fitted power mirrors.
    • David on The has excelled himself by producing this in-depth how to on replacing the cheater
  • Doors
  • Headlights
    • Gregg Hiltons MGF FAQ page has a section on how to colour code the F's headlights here.
    • Rob Bell has this page on the misty headlamp problem associated with the F.
    • Roger Parker shows how to change the headlights on an F on the MGOC website.
  • High level brake light
    • BPR160 from the forum explains how to replace a bulb in the F's high level brake light - "Undo the 2 screws which hold the HLBL in and remove the connector. Undo the 5 Phillips screws and gently pull the two halves apart. Bulbs are 286's."
  • Wing mirrors
    • Nice page here from Dieter showing the procedure for stripping a wing mirror.
    • and another page from Dieter for the repair of the wing mirror casing.
  • Aerodynamics
    • Rob Bell has this page on modifying the rear side air intake ducts.
    • Again from Rob Bell's site, this page covers the TF 200 HPD hybrid, and the aerodynamics that were added to it.
  • Petrol cap
    • So you would like to know how to take the petrol cap apart, have a look at this post on the forum from spaceoctagon
    • You can also visit Dieters site here where he will show you how to strip the cap down for cleaning.
    • another thread on the forum, this time its moonmanmike who dismantles and paints his petrol cap.


Page last modified on:08, December, 2013
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